Thursday, October 04, 2007

Need Sewing Advice - Buttons on Double Breasted Coat

My "muslin" coat is finished except for the buttons. As shown in the short tweedy view, the coat is a double breasted with four buttons. The pattern calls for four snaps as fasteners with non-functional, i.e. purely decorative buttons. I don't want snaps to close the coat; I want "real" buttons, but I'm not sure how many buttonholes to make.

Assume you are facing the coat, which has the right side lapped over the left. It would look sort of like this with the numbers representing the buttons and the lines indicating the top and side opening (try not to be too impressed by my graphic abilities!):



1 2 |


3 4 |


i.e. 2 & 4 are closest to the opening.

I think I should make buttonholes on the right side (i.e. outer layer) for # 1, 2, 4. Those would be functioning buttonholes, whereas #3 button would be decorative with no buttonhole. But should I make a functioning buttonhole for #3 on the (left side) bottom layer, too? i.e. so that the left side of the coat has one buttonhole with just a plain button that buttons to the the inside.

Now that my muslin is no longer a muslin, I don't want to screw it up! Help me, Please!


~Tonia~ said...

I don't sew so my advice probably isn't worth a grain of salt. I would say make them all functional. What's one more button hole? And it makes the jacket just that much more secure.

KnittyNancy said...

I would go to a good store and look at the tailored coats and jackets. After looking at a double breasted blazer and a double breasted full length coat, the third button is not functional on either. On a second blazer, only 2 and 4 are functional. The number 1 button is sewn on the inside of the front flap and buttons to the back flap. It is hidden. Does this make sense?

Allison said...

I think my head is going to explode! I would make 2 button holes on the "outside" the side that is on the top that are one above the other. Then the 2 buttons next to them a for show. Inside there is a less attractive but sturdy button holding the flap. That' my non-sewing 2 cents! We can always ask mom . . . She's on Ravelry you know - go ask her - code name Grani

LauraLo said...

In my RTW jackets, 2 and 4 are working buttonholes and 1 and 3 are buttons (yes, you have two buttons and two buttonholes). Those two buttons have another small button on the inside, that goes into a buttonhole (smaller one) in the other side.
Therefore, each side of the jacket has two buttons and two buttonholes.

gaylen said...

Bonnie - I agree with Lauralo - you need both buttons 1 & 3 to button into the bottom layer to keep the underside of the coat from drooping.

So, buttons 2& 4 button through the top layer and the buttons are actually sewn on the botton layer.

Also, on the bottom layer you have two button holes for sturdier non-decorative buttons to go through to support that layer, help keep the coat from drooping, and keep the coat closed. g

ali said...

I am at exactly the same stage with the same pattern! I've made mine from a cashmere coating and can't see how the snappers will be strong enough to hold the coat closed. I also want to use "proper" buttons. I have some vague memory of at least one button being fake from another coat, but would also welcome advice!