Saturday, December 29, 2012

Poochy Failure (McCalls 6399)

Cute Neckline; Not so cute waistline
Looks like I'm pregnant!

This top was such a disappointment. I thought it would be a nice wardrobe basic with the pleats adding a little sassiness. Instead, the pleats at the waist (front and back) were the downfall of this design. The neckline pleats were very cute and I love the whole shape of the neckline. If I was clever enough, I would incorporate the neckline including pleats into another top. But I'm not, so this pattern will go in the trash.

Pattern Description: MISSES' TOPS: Fitted, stitched pleats, optional invisible zipper, shoulder pads. This is a Palmer Pletsch pattern.

SUGGESTED FABRICS: Crepe De Chine, Silk Rayons, Challis, Silk Crepes, Jersey, Cotton Knits.

Pattern Sizing: Misses 8-22. I made a size 10 from shoulder to just below armhole, tapering to a 12-14 at hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? No. The pooching at the stomach and back are not evident in the photos and drawings. My stomach is relatively flat but the top makes me look like I have a huge tummy. No thank you!

I made View D

Link to Pattern

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, although I stopped before the back and sleeve facing construction which the pattern author describes as "unusual".

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Likes: I LOVE the neckline. The pleats at the upper sleeve / neckline are very attractive.

My favorite thing about this pattern is all the fitting tips (similar to other Palmer / Pletsch patterns.) I noticed there was an alteration for "Broad Back". I am embarrassed to admit this but I didn't know there was just a thing. As soon as I saw it, it was a "DOH!" moment (said in my best Homer Simpson voice.) I have often had fitting issues with my tops - when the front fits, the back is tight and vice versa. I always thought it was because I have a small bust. But instead, the fitting issues are caused by my back. And to make this even funnier, my mom is visiting and I asked her to take these photos to post. As soon as I turned for the back shot, she said, "I never realized you have the 'McHugh' (her family name) broad back." I about died laughing. Only took me 49 years but at least I know now.

Dislikes: The pleats at the waist are very UNflattering from the front and even more so from the back.

I also had some trouble with the sleeves twisting around. Not sure if I cut them off grain or if the pattern design is flawed. I was cutting single layer so I thought I stayed on grain but maybe not.

Sleeve Detail
Fabric Used: Stretch satin from Hancock. Although the shiny satin side would typically be the right side, I didn't want a shiny top so I used the matte side for the right side. Even though it's poly, I really liked this fabric and may try to buy some more for a different project.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Skipped the zipper, wasn't necessary. I also made a broad back adjustment to fit my body. I only got as far as pinning up the sleeves but they were very long on me. I usually need to shorten sleeves a bit (1/2-1") but I needed to shorten by 2 1/2" with 1" hem to get the right hem length as shown in the photo (i.e. as shown, it's folded 3 1/2".)

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No and absolutely not.

Conclusion: I should have listened to the other reviewers. This is just a bad design. But the silver lining is that I learned a valuable fitting tip that will help me on future projects.


Anonymous said...

Wait...I haven't read through everything yet, but do you have enough of a scrap of fabric left to make a tie belt to match? With the belt, and little clever blousing of the fabric at the waist, you might have a top you'd be willing to wear. -Karla

Denise said...

Sorry to hear this. This pattern has been on my make list for a few weeks! Thanks for sharing.

Lori said...

Sorry to hear this wasn't a winner. It is always disappointing after taking the time to make a garment. I know you will be back with a winner shortly, unless you are spoiling that grandson too much!

Gorgeous Things said...

That's funny - my maternal grandmother's maiden name was McHugh, and I have a broad back and shoulders as well.

I saw that pattern, and immediately discounted it because of the waist pleating. I made a top with some ruching at the waist and it made me look 5 months pregnant, so I avoid those kinds of design like they was plutonium.

Kyle said...

Wow, the back pleats make it look like you have swayback pooling!
How about pulling it from the trash and putting elastic in the sides to rouche it? Because the top part seems cute!

Dresses by Tracy McElfresh said...

That really sucks. When this happens to me and I have a few I turn them into artistic experiments. Cut, pull stitch, add pleats, pintucks and what ever to make it lay flat.

It's looks like the pattern would behave better out a fitted stretch jersey. if it were tight no pooch.

Clio said...

At least there is a silver lining with your new fitting knowledge! The neckline is lovely on you, too.

velosewer said...

I can see why you wanted to make this top. Thanks for your honesty.